Dec 24, 2008
We got up this morning at 5am to watch the sun rise. People were out tending the soil, children planting seeds and small boys walking the goats. It was simply beautiful.
After hiking a bit and getting our things together, our combi arrived and we headed down the mountain. Once in Simunye we took care of some business. While Amanda went into Shop Rite to get some snacks I sat with our bags just inside the Lewis furniture store. I was sitting with a female employee when a male employee came and sat with us. He immediately began asking me questions non-stop. He decided that he was falling for me about 3 questions in. Then after 3-4 more probing questions he decided he was in love with me. “Thank you”, I told him. I asked the lady what she would say if some random guy came at her full on like that. She said her reply would be the same. She couldn’t understand though I how I could expect to get through South Africa, Swaziland, Mozambique without getting a boyfriend. Actually, this is my last hour in Swazi and I had remained unattached. But since he was interested I began to ask probing questions too. I could not become his wife without knowing how much land he had, how many heads of cattle he owned, and whether he intended to take other wives. If he really wanted to marry me he would need to send 10 heads of cattle to my father. 10? Oh how about 5? Now I’m not worth it? You professed your love now money is making you think twice? I turned to the other lady while my suitor pondered my worth and asked what the standard bride price was in Swazi- 15 cattle! He was getting me at a discount and couldn’t even ante up. Thankfully Amanda returned to rescue me before I was engaged. Whew.
Dec 25, 2008
We got to Maputo, Mozambique last night. Once we crossed the border after a nerve wrecking hour of waiting to get a visa, we flagged down a car and got a lift into the city. We saw the sun rise in Swazi and watched it set in Mozambique. Seeing Maputo for the first time…there were billions of people, buildings crammed together, and tons of honking cars that seemed to have their own rules of the road. It was scary for me seeing as Namibia has 2 million people in the entire huge country. Our driver, Santos, really did turn out to be our Good Samaritan taking us to the bus depot then to find a hostel when we realized the bus at night was going to be a bad idea. He even let us use his cell phone to call our friend. We delivered us safely to Fatima’s. We had no reservation but there was camping available on the roof- that’s why we’d brought tents. We set up under a mango tree and then celebrated our arrival with a series of toasts, each time handing our various local beers to the right. (BTW, Laurentina stout is yummy with chocolate and espresso undertones.) Mostly we were glad to be alive and in a safe place.
Downstairs we met some PC Swazi volunteers and hit it off with them, planning to see them in a few days as we were all headed to Tofo.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Made It To Shewula...Barely
Dec 23, 2008
Yesterday we moved along to Shewula. We took a combi to Manzini, then one to Simunye. In Simunye we were trying to haggle over the price to get to Shewula. We asked for $10, but they said $15. Finally someone said $10 and we hopped in. After riding for a few minutes he says $12. Our car got stopped by the cops and Sarah was reprimanded- it is illegal to let any part of your body protrude from the car. Oops. The mountains in this area are breathtaking. As we made our way up the sun was setting and there are no words to describe the raspberry sherbet the sky had become. We are making stops and people are getting out of the combi. Night is falling and the driver says that we must pay $15. We argue that we agreed to $10 then even to $12. Ten minutes later he stops again and tells us that we must pay. We say look just take us to the place. The police? No, no the place we are going to. Ten minutes later he stops a combi going the other direction and all we hear is blah blah blah, it is $15. Fine guy we’ll pay $15 just take us to where we are going because I’m not going to argue with you over $3 apiece. When we finally got to the Shewula Moutain Lodge it looked deserted. A man emerged and helped us with our bags. The driver is complaining about you, he told us. I was so quick to get out of the combi that I didn’t notice my Nalgene had fallen out of my bag. What annoys me more than loosing my Nalg is loosing it in that guy’s combi.
Anyhow, we arrived at the lodge at dinner time. The food was excellent, some of it traditional, and all lovingly prepared by local people- chicken in peanut sauce, grilled chicken, baked beans, spinach, porridge. We ate until we couldn’t eat any more. Our room was so cute and it was so nice to sleep in a bed.
Yesterday we moved along to Shewula. We took a combi to Manzini, then one to Simunye. In Simunye we were trying to haggle over the price to get to Shewula. We asked for $10, but they said $15. Finally someone said $10 and we hopped in. After riding for a few minutes he says $12. Our car got stopped by the cops and Sarah was reprimanded- it is illegal to let any part of your body protrude from the car. Oops. The mountains in this area are breathtaking. As we made our way up the sun was setting and there are no words to describe the raspberry sherbet the sky had become. We are making stops and people are getting out of the combi. Night is falling and the driver says that we must pay $15. We argue that we agreed to $10 then even to $12. Ten minutes later he stops again and tells us that we must pay. We say look just take us to the place. The police? No, no the place we are going to. Ten minutes later he stops a combi going the other direction and all we hear is blah blah blah, it is $15. Fine guy we’ll pay $15 just take us to where we are going because I’m not going to argue with you over $3 apiece. When we finally got to the Shewula Moutain Lodge it looked deserted. A man emerged and helped us with our bags. The driver is complaining about you, he told us. I was so quick to get out of the combi that I didn’t notice my Nalgene had fallen out of my bag. What annoys me more than loosing my Nalg is loosing it in that guy’s combi.
Anyhow, we arrived at the lodge at dinner time. The food was excellent, some of it traditional, and all lovingly prepared by local people- chicken in peanut sauce, grilled chicken, baked beans, spinach, porridge. We ate until we couldn’t eat any more. Our room was so cute and it was so nice to sleep in a bed.
Weaving and Hiking
Dec 21, 2008
Today we just wanted to relax during the day. We went to the craft market and met Raymond. He’s from Zimbabwe, laid back, and cooks at this café as well as making bags out of colorful recycled plastic.
We were going to go adventure caving in the evening but didn’t have proper shoes so we went on a walk instead. The national park was gorgeous. We saw a traditional Swazi village and lots of monkeys. Finally we came to an amazing waterfall. When we got back, Raymond made us a yummy veggie dinner.
Today we just wanted to relax during the day. We went to the craft market and met Raymond. He’s from Zimbabwe, laid back, and cooks at this café as well as making bags out of colorful recycled plastic.
We were going to go adventure caving in the evening but didn’t have proper shoes so we went on a walk instead. The national park was gorgeous. We saw a traditional Swazi village and lots of monkeys. Finally we came to an amazing waterfall. When we got back, Raymond made us a yummy veggie dinner.
Rafting and Sailing
Dec 20, 2008
We went white water rafting today! It was sooooooo cool. Me and Cedar fell out of the boat twice- that was the best part. The rapids weren’t that much but good for beginners. I have got to do this again.
After that we did some absailing. You start at the top of a flat rock face attached to a rope and once you go over the edge you’re kind of walking down the wall. Shifting your weight as you go over the edge was the hardest part. For me, it never got fun- if it can- because I was concentrating so hard on not sliding down and scraping my body on the wall. I did it. I don’t need to do it again.
We went white water rafting today! It was sooooooo cool. Me and Cedar fell out of the boat twice- that was the best part. The rapids weren’t that much but good for beginners. I have got to do this again.
After that we did some absailing. You start at the top of a flat rock face attached to a rope and once you go over the edge you’re kind of walking down the wall. Shifting your weight as you go over the edge was the hardest part. For me, it never got fun- if it can- because I was concentrating so hard on not sliding down and scraping my body on the wall. I did it. I don’t need to do it again.
Swaziland...All You Want In Africa
Dec 19, 2008
Pat and Keith are so awesome. Pat went to the bus station and picked up our tickets then Keith dropped us off at 5:30am. We’re on our way to Swaziland.
Already it is a beautiful place with mountains and rolling green hills.
The bus depot or transport center in Manzini is one of the busiest places I’ve seen in ages. The only thing that compares is Bangkok and that city is at least 20 times as big as this one. It’s noisy and crowded and hot and that is a disgusting bathroom.
We’re finally in our combi or minivan type vehicle. We got to Ezulwini Valley without incident. Wow, there are so many people walking around in traditional dress (men w/a large piece of fabric wrapped around their waste and a fur belt, no shirt, and a sash across their chest).
We got to Legends Backpackers and put our stuff down. Cedar beat us there. Now we are four and go down to the Pick n Pay to get food for dinner.
Now we’re climbing into our tent and hoping that the monkeys don’t come knocking.
Pat and Keith are so awesome. Pat went to the bus station and picked up our tickets then Keith dropped us off at 5:30am. We’re on our way to Swaziland.
Already it is a beautiful place with mountains and rolling green hills.
The bus depot or transport center in Manzini is one of the busiest places I’ve seen in ages. The only thing that compares is Bangkok and that city is at least 20 times as big as this one. It’s noisy and crowded and hot and that is a disgusting bathroom.
We’re finally in our combi or minivan type vehicle. We got to Ezulwini Valley without incident. Wow, there are so many people walking around in traditional dress (men w/a large piece of fabric wrapped around their waste and a fur belt, no shirt, and a sash across their chest).
We got to Legends Backpackers and put our stuff down. Cedar beat us there. Now we are four and go down to the Pick n Pay to get food for dinner.
Now we’re climbing into our tent and hoping that the monkeys don’t come knocking.
Development
Dec 17, 2008
Wow, Gateway Mall is huge! There are stores, restaurants, and movies. There are so many cute clothes and bags and shoes and I’m a volunteer so I can’t afford this stuff and besides that I live in a village so where would I wear this stuff anyhow?
There were so many choices in the food court I actually could not choose and ended up eating off of everyone else’s plates- chicken wings, eggplant salad, hot dog.
We saw “The Women”. It was a disappointment to me and Meg Ryan looks strange.
Wow, Gateway Mall is huge! There are stores, restaurants, and movies. There are so many cute clothes and bags and shoes and I’m a volunteer so I can’t afford this stuff and besides that I live in a village so where would I wear this stuff anyhow?
There were so many choices in the food court I actually could not choose and ended up eating off of everyone else’s plates- chicken wings, eggplant salad, hot dog.
We saw “The Women”. It was a disappointment to me and Meg Ryan looks strange.
Durbs By The Sea
Dec 16, 2008
We touched down in Durban last night. I was so glad to be on the ground- I hurled on the flight and my stomach is still feeling a little uneasy. Keith from Smtihs’ Cottage picked us up at the airport. We were in awe at first- lights, buildings, 6 lane highway. Once we got settled in our room we went to get some Chinese food.
Today we got a lift into the city. The Victoria Street Market was cool with lots of crafts, Indian spices, and souvenirs. After that we hopped on the People Mover (bus) and headed toward the beach. As I looked out the window there was a sea of people seeming to be flowing all in one direction, all toward the beach as well. When the doors opened we held on to each other not to drown or get lost in that sea. There were more people on that beach than we had seen in all our Nam months. It was a bit disconcerting. We walked along until we hit Ushaka Marine World were we caught some traditional Zulu dancing, got some ice cream, and plopped down on a bench exhausted just from the sheer energy of things. We sat quietly and watched the people go by- Black, White, Indian, Other, traditional, modern, conservative, outrageous, under the radar. When we finally got up we went to meet Keith who took us to a little members club on the beach for a beer. In the club was White. There were some people of color passing by on the sand but it was all such a contrast to the crowds of brown people when we first got off the bus. (We came to find out that it was Freedom Day and that’s why things were so crazy.)
For dinner we had Indian food but in a restaurant that didn’t fit our vision of a cute mom n pop place. My prawns were good though- I ate so many I might turn into a prawn.
We touched down in Durban last night. I was so glad to be on the ground- I hurled on the flight and my stomach is still feeling a little uneasy. Keith from Smtihs’ Cottage picked us up at the airport. We were in awe at first- lights, buildings, 6 lane highway. Once we got settled in our room we went to get some Chinese food.
Today we got a lift into the city. The Victoria Street Market was cool with lots of crafts, Indian spices, and souvenirs. After that we hopped on the People Mover (bus) and headed toward the beach. As I looked out the window there was a sea of people seeming to be flowing all in one direction, all toward the beach as well. When the doors opened we held on to each other not to drown or get lost in that sea. There were more people on that beach than we had seen in all our Nam months. It was a bit disconcerting. We walked along until we hit Ushaka Marine World were we caught some traditional Zulu dancing, got some ice cream, and plopped down on a bench exhausted just from the sheer energy of things. We sat quietly and watched the people go by- Black, White, Indian, Other, traditional, modern, conservative, outrageous, under the radar. When we finally got up we went to meet Keith who took us to a little members club on the beach for a beer. In the club was White. There were some people of color passing by on the sand but it was all such a contrast to the crowds of brown people when we first got off the bus. (We came to find out that it was Freedom Day and that’s why things were so crazy.)
For dinner we had Indian food but in a restaurant that didn’t fit our vision of a cute mom n pop place. My prawns were good though- I ate so many I might turn into a prawn.
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