Monday, January 19, 2009

In The Sick Bay

I've been in the sick bay for 5 days, which isn't long when you consider that I've been coughing for about a year. It just seemed that every time I got a cold, when I recovered the cough still hung on for weeks. I've already told PC about this months ago and when I called the medical officer about a different issue last week she heard me coughing on the phone and decided that it was time to do something. She thinks I may be allergic to something, like Namibia.
Don't worry about me, I'll be okay and I'll keep you posted.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Not Yet

This break was too long- TOO long! I feel like I have to readjust all over again. I'm dreading it. I am not ready to go back to the village and don't even want to think about school starting in too few days...ack. Pray for me.

Before My Time

January 8, 2009

Sitting around in the Gobabis house with the youngsters...

J: You know that song with the French chorus by Christina Aguillera.

Me: Wow, he said that Lady Marmalade is by Christina Aguillera!

J: Well who's it by?

Me: Patti LaBelle

All the YOungsters: Who's Patti LaBelle?

Me: Really?

later that day SMS from J:
We're at the Shoprite right now and guess what's in the bargain bin...Patti LaBelle, the Essential Collection.

Me: LOL! Now you know.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Flat, Blowout, What?

January 2, 2008
We were supposed to get on a bus this morning back to Maputo. There weren’t enough seats. We waited 2 hours for another one to come. At 6 am we got moving. About an hour into it the bus got a flat tire. They put on a spare. An hour after that the bus had a blowout. There wasn’t another spare. Other buses stopped but only to take passengers not to help us. They’re trying to switch tires around- great, I’m sure that’s really safe. (This bus was arranged for us at an incredibly inflated price by Fatima’s.) Jesus please send us a ride. Ten minutes later Sarah sticks out her thumb and we got a ride…with South Africans…with GP plates! A dad (he’d been in the army, spent time in Namibia, and is now taking out landmines in Sudan) and his 3 daughters who were on their way back to Pretoria let us pile in with them. We were going to get dropped off in Maputo so we could take a bus the next morning back to Durban and fly out the morning after that. We changed planes in Jo’berg, which is about 50k away from Pretoria. We decided to go all the way.
Once we crossed the SA border, Steph had to drop some things off to friends. They came to meet us at the gas station and invited us all back to the house to stay the night since it was getting late. Sorry, not a house, almost a palace. There were so many bedrooms and rooms and bathrooms. When I asked for a place to hang my wet clothes she asked if I wanted to put them in the dryer…wow, a dryer. I haven’t seen one of those in a year and a half! The outside patio overlooked an amazing garden with glorious trees and birds. It was ridiculous.
For dinner we had grilled peri peri chicken (spicy), chips (that means fries), and an amazing salad (it didn’t involve mayonnaise at all…unlike Nam “salads”). The hosts were just so welcoming. They even made us real coffee in the morning before we drove those last few hours to Pretoria.

January 4, 2009
We spent yesterday in Pretoria. I ate a falafel sandwich! It was good. I saw ‘Pride and Glory’- well acted, disturbingly real. For breakfast this morning I had an egg Mcmuffin and a hashed brown with orange juice! I’m so easy to please.
After that we took a taxi to Jo’Berg airport and made our way back to Nam. We flew British Airways and the vegetable risotto was delicious.
Back in Nam, I’m going back to Gobabis and Sarah and Amanda are going up north. It’s difficult to get a lift to Gobabis. White people usually don’t stop and unlike Mozam there isn’t much traffic. After about 30 minutes road side, a guy from Windhoek stopped and picked me up! I hugged my travel buds goodbye and arrived in my shopping town in about an hour. The guy was going to visit a friend about a block away from our house wouldn’t you know. A fantastic end to my adventure.

Happy New Year!

January 1, 2009
Happy New Year!
It rained all night last night. I went to bed early. There was no countdown. Our tent is not water proof but water resistant- it sweats. I haven’t slept well in a while but that makes for good naps. We’ve been laying on the beach, jumping in the water, and eating seafood. We’ve made some friends with the kids selling their beaded bracelets- Coconut says that I should marry his brother and there will be no cattle involved because it will be for love. Why is everyone trying to marry me off?
I learned about a little stall in the back of all the craft stands where you can get awesome local food. You gotta walk between 2 of the stands to get back there. The ladies are so sweet and the peanut curry was excellent.
I’ve met lots of interesting people- PCVs from SA, a girl who drove from London to Cape Town, a couple who quit their jobs and have been traveling around Africa for 3 months.
Overall it’s been good. Mozambique is quite expensive though so if you come here I recommend not coming during the December holidays, DON”T stay at Fatima’s (I don’t even want to go into why but just don’t) and to get farther north- I hear Barro is breathtaking and quiet.

Bittersweet Victory

Dec 27, 2008
It rained off and on for three days- we got about 20 minutes of sun this morning- so it’s time to move on. We got a lift back to town and decided to split up into 2 and rendezvous at Fatima’s Nest Tofo. We devided the food, gave them the sign, then Sarah and I moved up the road. Race, I think about it a lot here. Would it be good for me to be with a guy? Or was it better for the black girl to go with another girl? Cars continued to pass us, even though so many had room for two but once again South Africans. After about 20 minutes, or so 2 Mozambiquean brothers stopped to pick us up. They’d passed up the white couple, Amanda and Cedar, so maybe it was because I was black (wink). They were on their way to see their family in the north. The car was nice and the ride was smooth even though the roads weren’t great. They chatted with us, pointed out good places to go and only made a couple of stops along the way. There were villages with thatched huts, people selling fruit, and lots of flooding which was heartbreaking. They dropped us off in Maxixe at the ferry. After haggling over the price- they tried to charge us for our backpacks but come on we know you don’t charge locals- we got on the slow as a turtle ferry across to Inhambane. Just as we stepped foot on the dock the rain started again. We pulled the tarp for the tent over our heads and walked out into the town. Sarah and I stood there for 10 minutes looking pitiful in the pouring rain but no one stopped for us...you know where they were from don’t you? Finally a couple stopped for us, she was from Namibia, and took us to where we could get a taxi out to the beach. Just as we were getting ourselves together a bus pulled up and read ‘Tofo Beach’ so we hopped on. Local, that’s how we do it.
When we arrived at the hostel Amanda and Cedar hadn’t checked in yet so we got dorm beds for the 4 of us and then walked to the market. They were selling grilled chicken on a stick and you could get beer right there as well. Chicken and beer. Back to the beach. No sign of them. Chicken and beer. Back to the beach. No sign of them. Finally we sat down to have dinner and wait for them…we were worried so it sucked all the sweetness out of our victory. Cedar’s phone was off and we had no number for them to call us at so we waited. We finished our grilled prawns, chatted with the SA family next to us who confirmed that Mozam was crazy expensive and that people from SA especially with the GP license plate will not pick you up if you are hitch hiking. Finally Amanda was dragging herself up the steps and I ran to hug her. Whew. And I thought since we were flying it’d take some of the adventure out of our trip, not so.

Tofo or bust

Dec 25, 2008
We got up early, settled our accounts, and piled into a taxi to get let out at the edge of town so we can hitch hike to Tofo. Our taxi driver let us out where buses stop which we realized then started walking. We walked far, crossed highways, got to a part of the city that seemed smaller, more outskirt like but it was not the end. We stopped and tried to flag down a ride. After a few minutes a guy picked us up and took us to a better place to hitch from- the police check point. It seemed like the 4 of us where there for at least four hours. There were zillions of cars passing by us with our Tofo sign but they didn’t have room for 4, weren’t going our way, or where South African and they generally don’t pick people up. We didn’t want to split into 2 because we weren’t sure exactly where we were going and what if we didn’t make it all the way. Finally a Mozambiquan guy picked us up and drove us half way. It had been a nice ride in a nice car with a nice driver. Now we were back out there with our sign while the rain showered us off and on for an hour. Finally we decided to take a local combi to Xai Xai town. Town seemed to be a long strip of shops and dilapidated buildings. We got out at the bus stop to take us to the beach, still another 10k outside of town. While we waited we waved at cars and after a few minutes a really nice couple from Durban stopped. Xai Xai beach has one hotel and the rest are camp grounds so it’s very self catering and people come prepared with their food, tents, cooking equipment, everything. We had our tents so that was good. Their 4x4 was piled high in the back with all of the supplies one should bring for such a holiday but for 10k we stuck our heads through the sunroof and lay on top of all the equipment. We ended up camping next to this nice couple and they continued to help us out here and there.
Xai Xai beach was beautiful with a rock wall running the length of it and causing the surf to crash. The sand was very shelly, but I loved playing in it.

Sunrise in Swazi, Sunset in Mozam

Dec 24, 2008
We got up this morning at 5am to watch the sun rise. People were out tending the soil, children planting seeds and small boys walking the goats. It was simply beautiful.
After hiking a bit and getting our things together, our combi arrived and we headed down the mountain. Once in Simunye we took care of some business. While Amanda went into Shop Rite to get some snacks I sat with our bags just inside the Lewis furniture store. I was sitting with a female employee when a male employee came and sat with us. He immediately began asking me questions non-stop. He decided that he was falling for me about 3 questions in. Then after 3-4 more probing questions he decided he was in love with me. “Thank you”, I told him. I asked the lady what she would say if some random guy came at her full on like that. She said her reply would be the same. She couldn’t understand though I how I could expect to get through South Africa, Swaziland, Mozambique without getting a boyfriend. Actually, this is my last hour in Swazi and I had remained unattached. But since he was interested I began to ask probing questions too. I could not become his wife without knowing how much land he had, how many heads of cattle he owned, and whether he intended to take other wives. If he really wanted to marry me he would need to send 10 heads of cattle to my father. 10? Oh how about 5? Now I’m not worth it? You professed your love now money is making you think twice? I turned to the other lady while my suitor pondered my worth and asked what the standard bride price was in Swazi- 15 cattle! He was getting me at a discount and couldn’t even ante up. Thankfully Amanda returned to rescue me before I was engaged. Whew.

Dec 25, 2008
We got to Maputo, Mozambique last night. Once we crossed the border after a nerve wrecking hour of waiting to get a visa, we flagged down a car and got a lift into the city. We saw the sun rise in Swazi and watched it set in Mozambique. Seeing Maputo for the first time…there were billions of people, buildings crammed together, and tons of honking cars that seemed to have their own rules of the road. It was scary for me seeing as Namibia has 2 million people in the entire huge country. Our driver, Santos, really did turn out to be our Good Samaritan taking us to the bus depot then to find a hostel when we realized the bus at night was going to be a bad idea. He even let us use his cell phone to call our friend. We delivered us safely to Fatima’s. We had no reservation but there was camping available on the roof- that’s why we’d brought tents. We set up under a mango tree and then celebrated our arrival with a series of toasts, each time handing our various local beers to the right. (BTW, Laurentina stout is yummy with chocolate and espresso undertones.) Mostly we were glad to be alive and in a safe place.
Downstairs we met some PC Swazi volunteers and hit it off with them, planning to see them in a few days as we were all headed to Tofo.

Made It To Shewula...Barely

Dec 23, 2008
Yesterday we moved along to Shewula. We took a combi to Manzini, then one to Simunye. In Simunye we were trying to haggle over the price to get to Shewula. We asked for $10, but they said $15. Finally someone said $10 and we hopped in. After riding for a few minutes he says $12. Our car got stopped by the cops and Sarah was reprimanded- it is illegal to let any part of your body protrude from the car. Oops. The mountains in this area are breathtaking. As we made our way up the sun was setting and there are no words to describe the raspberry sherbet the sky had become. We are making stops and people are getting out of the combi. Night is falling and the driver says that we must pay $15. We argue that we agreed to $10 then even to $12. Ten minutes later he stops again and tells us that we must pay. We say look just take us to the place. The police? No, no the place we are going to. Ten minutes later he stops a combi going the other direction and all we hear is blah blah blah, it is $15. Fine guy we’ll pay $15 just take us to where we are going because I’m not going to argue with you over $3 apiece. When we finally got to the Shewula Moutain Lodge it looked deserted. A man emerged and helped us with our bags. The driver is complaining about you, he told us. I was so quick to get out of the combi that I didn’t notice my Nalgene had fallen out of my bag. What annoys me more than loosing my Nalg is loosing it in that guy’s combi.
Anyhow, we arrived at the lodge at dinner time. The food was excellent, some of it traditional, and all lovingly prepared by local people- chicken in peanut sauce, grilled chicken, baked beans, spinach, porridge. We ate until we couldn’t eat any more. Our room was so cute and it was so nice to sleep in a bed.

Weaving and Hiking

Dec 21, 2008
Today we just wanted to relax during the day. We went to the craft market and met Raymond. He’s from Zimbabwe, laid back, and cooks at this cafĂ© as well as making bags out of colorful recycled plastic.
We were going to go adventure caving in the evening but didn’t have proper shoes so we went on a walk instead. The national park was gorgeous. We saw a traditional Swazi village and lots of monkeys. Finally we came to an amazing waterfall. When we got back, Raymond made us a yummy veggie dinner.

Rafting and Sailing

Dec 20, 2008
We went white water rafting today! It was sooooooo cool. Me and Cedar fell out of the boat twice- that was the best part. The rapids weren’t that much but good for beginners. I have got to do this again.
After that we did some absailing. You start at the top of a flat rock face attached to a rope and once you go over the edge you’re kind of walking down the wall. Shifting your weight as you go over the edge was the hardest part. For me, it never got fun- if it can- because I was concentrating so hard on not sliding down and scraping my body on the wall. I did it. I don’t need to do it again.

Swaziland...All You Want In Africa

Dec 19, 2008
Pat and Keith are so awesome. Pat went to the bus station and picked up our tickets then Keith dropped us off at 5:30am. We’re on our way to Swaziland.
Already it is a beautiful place with mountains and rolling green hills.
The bus depot or transport center in Manzini is one of the busiest places I’ve seen in ages. The only thing that compares is Bangkok and that city is at least 20 times as big as this one. It’s noisy and crowded and hot and that is a disgusting bathroom.
We’re finally in our combi or minivan type vehicle. We got to Ezulwini Valley without incident. Wow, there are so many people walking around in traditional dress (men w/a large piece of fabric wrapped around their waste and a fur belt, no shirt, and a sash across their chest).
We got to Legends Backpackers and put our stuff down. Cedar beat us there. Now we are four and go down to the Pick n Pay to get food for dinner.
Now we’re climbing into our tent and hoping that the monkeys don’t come knocking.

Development

Dec 17, 2008
Wow, Gateway Mall is huge! There are stores, restaurants, and movies. There are so many cute clothes and bags and shoes and I’m a volunteer so I can’t afford this stuff and besides that I live in a village so where would I wear this stuff anyhow?
There were so many choices in the food court I actually could not choose and ended up eating off of everyone else’s plates- chicken wings, eggplant salad, hot dog.
We saw “The Women”. It was a disappointment to me and Meg Ryan looks strange.

Durbs By The Sea

Dec 16, 2008
We touched down in Durban last night. I was so glad to be on the ground- I hurled on the flight and my stomach is still feeling a little uneasy. Keith from Smtihs’ Cottage picked us up at the airport. We were in awe at first- lights, buildings, 6 lane highway. Once we got settled in our room we went to get some Chinese food.
Today we got a lift into the city. The Victoria Street Market was cool with lots of crafts, Indian spices, and souvenirs. After that we hopped on the People Mover (bus) and headed toward the beach. As I looked out the window there was a sea of people seeming to be flowing all in one direction, all toward the beach as well. When the doors opened we held on to each other not to drown or get lost in that sea. There were more people on that beach than we had seen in all our Nam months. It was a bit disconcerting. We walked along until we hit Ushaka Marine World were we caught some traditional Zulu dancing, got some ice cream, and plopped down on a bench exhausted just from the sheer energy of things. We sat quietly and watched the people go by- Black, White, Indian, Other, traditional, modern, conservative, outrageous, under the radar. When we finally got up we went to meet Keith who took us to a little members club on the beach for a beer. In the club was White. There were some people of color passing by on the sand but it was all such a contrast to the crowds of brown people when we first got off the bus. (We came to find out that it was Freedom Day and that’s why things were so crazy.)
For dinner we had Indian food but in a restaurant that didn’t fit our vision of a cute mom n pop place. My prawns were good though- I ate so many I might turn into a prawn.