Sunday, April 12, 2009

The Condom Debacle

April 8, 2009


That’s all I can say- there was a condom debacle. I can’t tell you what happened. One day it will be funny when I say ‘the kid ate the banana’. But today I felt defeated. As Grade 7 stood there in silence, I stood there with my head down thinking, ‘You need more help than I can give you.’ Every one of the kids is a special needs leaner. Each of them needs their hand held more often than I can hold it. I feel ill-equipped.
For the moment, I don't even want to talk about it anymore.

It's A Dance Off

April 7, 2009

A teacher was working on his car and blasting music in the yard after study. We went outside to listen. Then more children came. And more...every grade and age. An impromptu dance contest- I love it.

Well Paint Me Orange and Give Me Sour Milk

I do so little to please my mother (she my host mom, how did she guilt me in to this?)I decided that I must do this.
She got a "traditional" Hereo dress and put me in it. 5 petticoats! And a cow hat on top.
There are pictures. She is going to print one and send it to the States with me as a gift to my family.
(Picture will be posted when I get to America!!! Soon)
April 1, 2009

As I stood with the school’s secretary and waited for the learners to line up after break, I couldn’t help but remark that ‘I hate this place and I look forward to the day it is no longer my life’.
She replied, ‘You have only 8 months then you will go. What about us? I want to leave this place too.’
‘You can come with me to America.’
‘Oh I want to. I would just tell my husband that I am leaving.’
We laughed. Of course she wouldn’t do that.
‘I know Hereros are my people but they are not nice.’

It continues to be confirmed that it is not just me. It’s not just foreigners either. I love this woman, she made my day. Somebody buy this woman a ticket! (I'm a volunteer and have no money.)

Is That Traditional?

March 30, 2009

Today is Monday. The Principal was absent from school. He bought a new car last weekend and had to have a ‘traditional car-welcoming’ ceremony. And he had to have it on a school day. Sounds like a personal affair to me.
At sunrise a sheep was slaughtered, the entrails were removed and sprinkled over the car. The grandfather lit the “holy fire” which connects them to their ancestors. To the holy fire the grandfather spoke words of safety and prosperity over the son and his car. Then they ate the sheep and had tea. Everything is sealed by the eating of meat.

I could see from the other teacher's face that this was serious business so I tried not to laugh. Are they for real?

Ready For A New Life

March 30, 2009

C: I am so ready for this not to be my life anymore. These’ll probably be 2 of the longest weeks until town EVER.

B: Word. Today itself feels like an eternity.
2 things today: 1) that Walton’s pencil sharpener really does rock! 2) one of my grade 6 had donkey meat in her backpack.

C: LOL! Only in Nam. Thanks for the laugh. Speaking of donkeys, there’s a possibility of a ride this weekend…and more laughs. Glad the sharpener’s working out.

B: Too funny. I’ll bring my camera in that case. I never thought I’d utter the words ‘it’s okay to have donkey meat in your backpack. You just can’t eat it in class’!

C: That may be the funniest thing…wait I should read your other funniest text to give myself a little laughter…that is quite a sentence to utter. TIML…but only for 8 more months.

B: Life is never dull here. Yes, it’s almost April, my friend! And yet The End still feels far.

C: You’d think village life would be dull- that’s why we brought all the books and dvds, not knowing we’d cling to them to feel normal. It is practically April and while the end seems far, God speed us to the break!

B: Oh man, it’s so true about the books and dvds. Town then holiday. Town then holiday.

C: Shoot, as soon as we get to town for the 4 day weekend (and Jack…Bauer, not Daniels) it’ll be exams and then slide right into much needed and deserved vacay.

B: ;)

Done

March 29, 2009

B: Hellooo, how was the weekend? At what point does it become a problem that my most frequent thought is ‘I hate me life’? :)

C: Hi, hi, weekend was relaxing. Reading ‘Shakespeare Secret’ again. I realized I have a brown thumb- my garden is a bust! Hey you are not having murderous thoughts about the kids so that’s good. Uhm beyond that I think it’s time to change location…and probably careers. Let’s go now now.

B: End of text missing but glad you had a good weekend. I’m sorry about your garden, it’s the Nam soil I’m sure.

C: I’ll re-send. Oh I wish it was the Nam soil, it is usually Nam’s fault but I did kill the basil…a hearty plant according to Amanda.

B: Just got the rest of your text. Lol, let’s go!

C: Let’s go to… Tanzania. We can work on one of those farms and hang out with my friend’s family.

B: Sold!

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Post of Love

March 13, 2009


To: Miss Randle
Good morning. I want to say thanks for the shoes you gave me for my happy birthday. I am proud and happy of you. Because you are a good teacher. Next week I will buy for you nice things. Thanks for teaching me.
From: Ngunondjamo

Puffing Away

March 12, 2009

Me: Today in Life Skills grade 6 we talked about ‘I’m ashamed when…’ and one of them said, ‘I’m ashamed when I puff.’ LOL! The entire class cracked up- it was great. You are the first one who told me about puffing. Lol.

Grace: Ahahahaha. That’s awesome!  I think the word ‘puffing’ may be the funniest word ever.

*puffing= farting

Not Me

March 8, 2009
I just found out I’m supposed to be on the Educative Tour Committee. Excuse me? Who? What when were…I’m so flabbergasted I can’t even put question marks! I vehemently protest my appointment to this project. Yall just keep trying to make me do things I don’t want to do. Let someone volunteer (cuz I already am). Assign someone who believes in this project, cuz it aint me babe no no no it aint me babe it aint me you’re lookin for, babe.
I’m not opposed to the tour, I just don’t want to be a part of it. I’ve heard too many horror stories from other volunteers. They need to do their own fundraising within Nam and have Namibian teachers working on it so it doesn’t start and end with a PCV, like it does at most schools.
Besides, I’ve got a full plate with reading groups, netball courts, ISP, and other things. Thank you but I’d rather not.

Who's In Charge?

March 6, 2009
The Ministry of Education monitors the schools, the principals, and the teachers in their region. They make sure things are running smoothly and that everyone is doing their job. Guess who works at the Min of Edu? The people who couldn’t do their job. The failed teachers and principals go to work in the Min of Edu and monitor the schools of our region. Those who couldn’t principal now make sure the principals are up to par. Make sense? Just like everything else in this place.

The Usual Unknown Feelings

March 5, 2009

Me: Hey honey, you going to Windhooek this weekend? Thea left some stuff in my PC box, if it’s not too much will you grab it for me? Thank you.

AM: Hi. How are you? Yeah I’ll grab the stuffs and try not to run away from here :)

Me: Oh as long as you don’t run away without me :)
I’m good and not so good and trying to work through my issues (of which there are enough). How are you?

AM: Even me Miss. Seem to be struggling but feel like less struggle than last month…good then who knows then bed then alright then rocky. I don’t know anymore :)

Me: Oh you know I don’t know…up and down and all around %-)

AM: Yep and all the time. Permanently %-) hahahahahahaha

Me: Shallow pool of insanity ;-)

AM: Hahahahaaa…someone please tell me I’m going to have or least feel like I have more control over my life when this is all over?!

Me: Yes, you’ll have the illusion of control but once you’ve been in the matrix…

AM: But I thought this was going to make me stronger and now I feel it’s having a reverse affect. Sorry…heavy stuff %-)

Me: Hah stuff is heavy for me right now too. I thought this would build the character of Christ, which it may…when I stop feeling like a jerk. It’s all topsy turvy at the moment :-P

AM: Hehe I don’t know, we’ll see I guess. I’m trying so hard to stay positive. Or something like that. Hmmmm. Breather and remind myself that I’m not lost. And pray too 

Me: Learning to find balance in this crazy life and coming out (somewhat) sane on the other side will make us stronger. Until that glorious day we can breather deeply, pray often, and try to focus on the good things and bring ourselves back to a place of thankfulness when we realize we’ve drifted into the darkness. I’m thankful that you’re my friend 

AM: You’re so right, with everything. And I am so thankful for you too. That sms is a keeper. This place makes me struggle with everything. Even being a good friend %-)

Sunday, February 22, 2009

February 19, 2009

C: Hey Julie, what’s the name of the cockroach bomb and what does the bottle look like?

J: Hey Catherine! It’s great to hear from you. Yeah it’s Doom fogger in a red can.

C: Thanks. So how’s it down your way?

J: Uhm…how many days/weeks/months do we have left? Things are moving along. How are you?

C: Ha ha, I’m with you. I’m reading ‘Three Cups of Tea’ about building schools in Pakistan- the guy has so much passion. I used to be described as a passionate person. Where did it all go?? I haven’t started counting days until COS (close of service) but I’ve been dreaming about the trip (^_^).

J: Oh good! I’ve heard it’s a good book. Yeah, that whole idealistic change the world crap pretty much has been beaten out of me.

C: Yeah, this place’ll beat a lotta things outta ya. Hang in there, it’s more than ½ way over!

J: Yay! Lekker slap and enjoy tomorrow.

Na ru ho do...I see!

February 11, 2009

I was hanging out with my host mom at the finish line of the track. As we waited for our events to begin we chatted. She turns to me and asks, “In your country, is it common for a husband to take a girlfriend?”

C: “Uhm, no. People cheat on their spouses but it’s not a cultural norm- not something to be expected. If you did it, you’d be trying to hide it. It’s something to be ashamed of, breaking your marriage vows.”

HM: “That woman over there in the red shirt is the girlfriend of Mrs. Jackson’s husband. They have two kids together and one of them is here in the 1st grade.”

C: “No way!” I said as I turned to look and saw that all the girlfriend and wife and the small group of spectators were all chatting together.

HM: “Yes, men here will openly take a girlfriend. I blame the men. A woman would never approach a man and try to start a relationship with him. He always approaches her. And if he tells her to it is okay to call him, then she will. If he tells her not to call because he is with his wife, then she won’t. If the wife acts jealous then people talk badly about her and say that she should be ashamed of herself.”

C: “Seriously? If this was America and the wife and girlfriend would not be hanging out together. There would be a fight. People’s friends would not accept the girlfriend. The man would not openly flaunt this.”

HM: “In America if the wife acts jealous then maybe it means that she loves her man. Here she must just live with the situation.”

Aaaaaaah, now I see. That’s one of the main reasons these women are so wary of outside females. Their husbands may very well be attracted and pursue these new ladies with little respect for their wives. They are circling the wagons, and won’t let me in. But what they don’t know is, I have absolutely no interest in any of their men. I won’t even expand on that, I’ll just say that I have no desire to stay in Namibia and will not be getting into a romantic relationship with anyone. No exceptions.

Warm and Fuzzy Village Life

February 10, 2009

C: Is Herero land the warm and fuzzy village you imagined? Do you feel welcomed, greeted, and integrated?

Kate: What deep and intense questions…for me, living in a very small village of 200, I feel welcomed and accepted. To be honest I wasn’t sure what to expect besides loads of meat and drinking.

C: Yeah? Me, Bri, and Leah have some moments of welcome or friendliness but the majority are not that way. Women are unsure what to make of a single woman with no kids- because that’s where most of them are at. Greeting, if not returned with a similar greeting is a) not replied to just stared at, b) grunted at, c) or returned with English (though if I greeted in English they’d tell me I need to learn Otjiherero). Not feeling like this place is open.

K: I am not sure if it’s because I am living in such a small close knit village…it’s mostly women who are elders, who don’t speak English, and never go outside. There are a few women that snicker and who I feel don’t like me.

C: I guess I feel like more women don’t like me than do but the ones who do are great.

K: Just got the rest of your message…and I agree with the language thing…they expect us to be fluent and know everything and if we don’t then they grunt us off…I hate the grunting! It’s rude and inconsiderate. This is more so from the women I feel but it can go both ways.

C: Oh the grunting works my nerves! It is so rude to me…and discourages me from speaking at all.

K: Oh me too…it’s like I am trying here and you come at me with a grunt…I don’t think so. Ugh!

Feeling Some Kinda Way

February 9, 2009

I got called “white” or “Boer” by one of the 5th graders. Another child in class reported it to me, which means it was a disrespectful thing. I had to ask the secretary what the word meant. She said I should send him to the principal. I did. Pretty sure he got a couple of whacks on the hand with a stick and was told to apologize. He came back all teary-eyed.
I reminded him of his name, Tjipumba, and that that is what I call him. He is allowed to call me Ms. Randle and nothing else. I thought of the sweets I had given him just this morning and how I let him borrow the soccer ball. Then I felt like a parent. You are trying to care for your kid and they act like this. Children are still learning how to reciprocate caring behavior and they act out with little forethought or consideration for others when they don’t get their way.
The strangest past was that I didn’t know how I felt. I still don’t.

Gotta Gotta Get to Otjimanangombe

February 8, 2009

9pm
B: Uhm am still at Post 10, thanks to Katjaimo and your transport driver not going all the way to Post 8 tonight. Am at side of road now. Supposedly a transport from Windhoek may come at like 1am. ARRGGGH

C: Yeah it’s the bus we took out that time. It’d be awesome to see you. You could aim for the bus but if you miss it that’s fine. We’ll just go through another week and hope our heads don’t explode from all we need to say to someone who understands…English ;)

B: Ok, will wait a bit more out here and if no ride then I’ll aim for the bus.

C: Ok honey, be careful…don’t get run over by any meandering cows. TIML %) (This Is My Life)

2AM
B: It’s 2am and no bus…I think it’s a bust for tonight. I may try to hike in the AM. Sleep well.

She did hike in the morning and got a great ride with someone who would also take her back on Sunday. I know it sounds like a lot to go through to see a friend but imagine only getting to decompress with the people who support and understand you about twice a month.

B: Hey deary, made it back in 30 minutes! It was SO GREAT to see you! Thank you so much for the great meals, and especially sharing your rice and mango. At least I am some how recharged for this week. Oh and dude did offer to take us to and from town anytime, for whatever that’s worth. Have a good night and hope you have a great week :)

C: Wow! A good ride makes a world of difference. I’m sure this offer of rides is the beginning of your courtship and I’m going to encourage it as need arises. Oh of course, I share everything with you. It was wonderful to see you too. I also feel refreshed and ready to make the most of this week. See you again soon.

Celebrate The Small Successes

February 4, 2009

I’m so proud of Grade 6! They are such an awesome class. So last week we started Natural Science with the male reproductive organs (1st topic in the book actually) and they had a test on it. The next day I put the names of the the 3 highest scorers on the bulletin board and they got stickers. They loved the recognition.
On Monday we began with the female reproductive organs. Next we made some flashcards to help them study. When we took the test so you want to know how many perfect scores there were?? Nine! This is up from 1 the last week. I praised them and told them how proud I am. Their little faces were beaming. I also said, “Now I know that you can do it and you know that you can do it. I expect you to keep it up.”

No, This Isn’t A Joke But It’s Hilarious

February 1, 2009

B: I know it’s not free yet but I really have to say that so far today: (1) I found a plastic shopping bag in the toilet and (2) 1 of the 4 kids who stays here walked in on me in the shower just now. Why was she able to do this? Because they took the lock off the bathroom door- that the Ministry of Works just put on btw- and so now we use a brick to shut the door and a hand towel in the now exposed lock hole. Granted the kid has Downs Syndrome and doesn’t know any better, but still.
AND since we’re on the topic of me b%tching, I’d like to add that they CUT the burglar bars off the bathroom window and now use it as an underwear drying rack. AND I’ve seen this lady’s boobs about a gazillion times so far. AND I can often hear them SAWing up meat in the kitchen. WTF to all of this. Aye. Anyway how was your day? You can reply when it’s free.

C: LOL! That is so unbelievable that it’s hilarious. You’re not b$tching, those are legit oddities, grievances, and annoyances. Was there any talk about taking the lock off for the kid’s safety? Probably not. You just came home to find the door all jacked up. Burglar bars are PC policy, besides who the eff does that?? Security measure or clothes rack? Buy some hangers lady. It’s all so ridic. Sorry honey.

B: Craziness I say. This is why it’s best to stay in my room.
P.S. By the time we get to town this month I will have spent 5 weeks/weekends in Epukiro….too many. I hope I make it!

C: The more I think about it the funnier it gets. That’s not even her house, and she just came in and ripped out the lock and tore apart the burglar bars. And it’s been about a week right? So if you’ve seen her boobs a gazillion times already that means she spends like 90% of the time topless.

B: Yes, that’s correct.

January 30, 2009

C: Hey honey, it’s the weekend! How was school? What’s going on in Okovimburu?

B: Hey hey yay weekend. The learners all went home for the weekend so it’s nice and quiet. A pretty good week, mucho busy though. But we still have power…maybe they forgot to unplug us before they left for the weekend? Who knows. This place is a mystery. How are things there? How was the first week back? The learners already fluent in English?

C: Yep, I whipped ‘em into shape. Now they’re reading Orwell and Shakespeare- what I was reading in 7th grade. My work here is done, see ya ;). Week was good. I’m getting organized, learning names, and talking about how babies are made! Glad you’ll have a quiet weekend and I hope you don’t get unplugged.

B: Oh that’s hilarious, Shakespeare. Ya. Oooh I forgot you are teaching science! baby talk= awesome. Hey it’s almost February, we are cruising right along :)

Just Another Day

January 26, 2009

Bri: How’s the day?
C: Day was fine. Just saw the timetable. Turns out Mon/Tues are busy days :). I still managed to do little to nothing! Not stressed at all, want to get caught up though. Oh that teacher, just on maternity leave- blurg. Got Burt’s Bees coconut on my feet though- yummy!

B: Oh yuck, too bad her leave is only temp. Oh well. At least you’ll have soft feet. Big parent meeting tomorrow- should be awesome :)

C: Ooooooh have fun with the folks! They never make me go to those things. Got power? Agua?

B: Yea, Friday is the big day (that they’ll cut off the village’s power and water supply for non-payment). Aye.

C: Aaaack, that ish is crazy. I’m praying for ya honey.

B: Thanks, I need it. I mean where will I go to the bathroom…can I go in the bush with so many people and snakes…err

C: Get a bucket and toss it? Or rebuild one of those old outhouses and have a real PC experience. Who needs a flush toilet? Except maybe when you have a running stomach.

B: Indeed, I’d have to lay off the sour milk then (a staple in our communities), :)

C: That sucks since it’s your fave ;)

A Little Help From My Friends

When NamLife and rural schools get me down, my PCV buds always come through with love…

AM: U have a very difficult job and as long as you’re doing your best you can’t ask any more of yourself. You’re teaching them a lot more than is in the syllabus. Seriously!

GB: I’m totally a Catherine cheerleader. Especially if my uniform could be purple. :)

Thea: Prepping mentally for another year takes lots of encouragement and assurance. We can do this Catherine! Sleep well friend. Tomorrow is still the weekend. Another day to rest and store up energy for the week ahead.

AM: Sounds like you’re in good spirits! Everyone has high numbers in grade 5. System sets it up that way with their whole fail/transfer rubbish. But we’re still smiling . It’s a good challenge. You’ll rock it out!

Monday, January 19, 2009

In The Sick Bay

I've been in the sick bay for 5 days, which isn't long when you consider that I've been coughing for about a year. It just seemed that every time I got a cold, when I recovered the cough still hung on for weeks. I've already told PC about this months ago and when I called the medical officer about a different issue last week she heard me coughing on the phone and decided that it was time to do something. She thinks I may be allergic to something, like Namibia.
Don't worry about me, I'll be okay and I'll keep you posted.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Not Yet

This break was too long- TOO long! I feel like I have to readjust all over again. I'm dreading it. I am not ready to go back to the village and don't even want to think about school starting in too few days...ack. Pray for me.

Before My Time

January 8, 2009

Sitting around in the Gobabis house with the youngsters...

J: You know that song with the French chorus by Christina Aguillera.

Me: Wow, he said that Lady Marmalade is by Christina Aguillera!

J: Well who's it by?

Me: Patti LaBelle

All the YOungsters: Who's Patti LaBelle?

Me: Really?

later that day SMS from J:
We're at the Shoprite right now and guess what's in the bargain bin...Patti LaBelle, the Essential Collection.

Me: LOL! Now you know.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Flat, Blowout, What?

January 2, 2008
We were supposed to get on a bus this morning back to Maputo. There weren’t enough seats. We waited 2 hours for another one to come. At 6 am we got moving. About an hour into it the bus got a flat tire. They put on a spare. An hour after that the bus had a blowout. There wasn’t another spare. Other buses stopped but only to take passengers not to help us. They’re trying to switch tires around- great, I’m sure that’s really safe. (This bus was arranged for us at an incredibly inflated price by Fatima’s.) Jesus please send us a ride. Ten minutes later Sarah sticks out her thumb and we got a ride…with South Africans…with GP plates! A dad (he’d been in the army, spent time in Namibia, and is now taking out landmines in Sudan) and his 3 daughters who were on their way back to Pretoria let us pile in with them. We were going to get dropped off in Maputo so we could take a bus the next morning back to Durban and fly out the morning after that. We changed planes in Jo’berg, which is about 50k away from Pretoria. We decided to go all the way.
Once we crossed the SA border, Steph had to drop some things off to friends. They came to meet us at the gas station and invited us all back to the house to stay the night since it was getting late. Sorry, not a house, almost a palace. There were so many bedrooms and rooms and bathrooms. When I asked for a place to hang my wet clothes she asked if I wanted to put them in the dryer…wow, a dryer. I haven’t seen one of those in a year and a half! The outside patio overlooked an amazing garden with glorious trees and birds. It was ridiculous.
For dinner we had grilled peri peri chicken (spicy), chips (that means fries), and an amazing salad (it didn’t involve mayonnaise at all…unlike Nam “salads”). The hosts were just so welcoming. They even made us real coffee in the morning before we drove those last few hours to Pretoria.

January 4, 2009
We spent yesterday in Pretoria. I ate a falafel sandwich! It was good. I saw ‘Pride and Glory’- well acted, disturbingly real. For breakfast this morning I had an egg Mcmuffin and a hashed brown with orange juice! I’m so easy to please.
After that we took a taxi to Jo’Berg airport and made our way back to Nam. We flew British Airways and the vegetable risotto was delicious.
Back in Nam, I’m going back to Gobabis and Sarah and Amanda are going up north. It’s difficult to get a lift to Gobabis. White people usually don’t stop and unlike Mozam there isn’t much traffic. After about 30 minutes road side, a guy from Windhoek stopped and picked me up! I hugged my travel buds goodbye and arrived in my shopping town in about an hour. The guy was going to visit a friend about a block away from our house wouldn’t you know. A fantastic end to my adventure.

Happy New Year!

January 1, 2009
Happy New Year!
It rained all night last night. I went to bed early. There was no countdown. Our tent is not water proof but water resistant- it sweats. I haven’t slept well in a while but that makes for good naps. We’ve been laying on the beach, jumping in the water, and eating seafood. We’ve made some friends with the kids selling their beaded bracelets- Coconut says that I should marry his brother and there will be no cattle involved because it will be for love. Why is everyone trying to marry me off?
I learned about a little stall in the back of all the craft stands where you can get awesome local food. You gotta walk between 2 of the stands to get back there. The ladies are so sweet and the peanut curry was excellent.
I’ve met lots of interesting people- PCVs from SA, a girl who drove from London to Cape Town, a couple who quit their jobs and have been traveling around Africa for 3 months.
Overall it’s been good. Mozambique is quite expensive though so if you come here I recommend not coming during the December holidays, DON”T stay at Fatima’s (I don’t even want to go into why but just don’t) and to get farther north- I hear Barro is breathtaking and quiet.

Bittersweet Victory

Dec 27, 2008
It rained off and on for three days- we got about 20 minutes of sun this morning- so it’s time to move on. We got a lift back to town and decided to split up into 2 and rendezvous at Fatima’s Nest Tofo. We devided the food, gave them the sign, then Sarah and I moved up the road. Race, I think about it a lot here. Would it be good for me to be with a guy? Or was it better for the black girl to go with another girl? Cars continued to pass us, even though so many had room for two but once again South Africans. After about 20 minutes, or so 2 Mozambiquean brothers stopped to pick us up. They’d passed up the white couple, Amanda and Cedar, so maybe it was because I was black (wink). They were on their way to see their family in the north. The car was nice and the ride was smooth even though the roads weren’t great. They chatted with us, pointed out good places to go and only made a couple of stops along the way. There were villages with thatched huts, people selling fruit, and lots of flooding which was heartbreaking. They dropped us off in Maxixe at the ferry. After haggling over the price- they tried to charge us for our backpacks but come on we know you don’t charge locals- we got on the slow as a turtle ferry across to Inhambane. Just as we stepped foot on the dock the rain started again. We pulled the tarp for the tent over our heads and walked out into the town. Sarah and I stood there for 10 minutes looking pitiful in the pouring rain but no one stopped for us...you know where they were from don’t you? Finally a couple stopped for us, she was from Namibia, and took us to where we could get a taxi out to the beach. Just as we were getting ourselves together a bus pulled up and read ‘Tofo Beach’ so we hopped on. Local, that’s how we do it.
When we arrived at the hostel Amanda and Cedar hadn’t checked in yet so we got dorm beds for the 4 of us and then walked to the market. They were selling grilled chicken on a stick and you could get beer right there as well. Chicken and beer. Back to the beach. No sign of them. Chicken and beer. Back to the beach. No sign of them. Finally we sat down to have dinner and wait for them…we were worried so it sucked all the sweetness out of our victory. Cedar’s phone was off and we had no number for them to call us at so we waited. We finished our grilled prawns, chatted with the SA family next to us who confirmed that Mozam was crazy expensive and that people from SA especially with the GP license plate will not pick you up if you are hitch hiking. Finally Amanda was dragging herself up the steps and I ran to hug her. Whew. And I thought since we were flying it’d take some of the adventure out of our trip, not so.

Tofo or bust

Dec 25, 2008
We got up early, settled our accounts, and piled into a taxi to get let out at the edge of town so we can hitch hike to Tofo. Our taxi driver let us out where buses stop which we realized then started walking. We walked far, crossed highways, got to a part of the city that seemed smaller, more outskirt like but it was not the end. We stopped and tried to flag down a ride. After a few minutes a guy picked us up and took us to a better place to hitch from- the police check point. It seemed like the 4 of us where there for at least four hours. There were zillions of cars passing by us with our Tofo sign but they didn’t have room for 4, weren’t going our way, or where South African and they generally don’t pick people up. We didn’t want to split into 2 because we weren’t sure exactly where we were going and what if we didn’t make it all the way. Finally a Mozambiquan guy picked us up and drove us half way. It had been a nice ride in a nice car with a nice driver. Now we were back out there with our sign while the rain showered us off and on for an hour. Finally we decided to take a local combi to Xai Xai town. Town seemed to be a long strip of shops and dilapidated buildings. We got out at the bus stop to take us to the beach, still another 10k outside of town. While we waited we waved at cars and after a few minutes a really nice couple from Durban stopped. Xai Xai beach has one hotel and the rest are camp grounds so it’s very self catering and people come prepared with their food, tents, cooking equipment, everything. We had our tents so that was good. Their 4x4 was piled high in the back with all of the supplies one should bring for such a holiday but for 10k we stuck our heads through the sunroof and lay on top of all the equipment. We ended up camping next to this nice couple and they continued to help us out here and there.
Xai Xai beach was beautiful with a rock wall running the length of it and causing the surf to crash. The sand was very shelly, but I loved playing in it.

Sunrise in Swazi, Sunset in Mozam

Dec 24, 2008
We got up this morning at 5am to watch the sun rise. People were out tending the soil, children planting seeds and small boys walking the goats. It was simply beautiful.
After hiking a bit and getting our things together, our combi arrived and we headed down the mountain. Once in Simunye we took care of some business. While Amanda went into Shop Rite to get some snacks I sat with our bags just inside the Lewis furniture store. I was sitting with a female employee when a male employee came and sat with us. He immediately began asking me questions non-stop. He decided that he was falling for me about 3 questions in. Then after 3-4 more probing questions he decided he was in love with me. “Thank you”, I told him. I asked the lady what she would say if some random guy came at her full on like that. She said her reply would be the same. She couldn’t understand though I how I could expect to get through South Africa, Swaziland, Mozambique without getting a boyfriend. Actually, this is my last hour in Swazi and I had remained unattached. But since he was interested I began to ask probing questions too. I could not become his wife without knowing how much land he had, how many heads of cattle he owned, and whether he intended to take other wives. If he really wanted to marry me he would need to send 10 heads of cattle to my father. 10? Oh how about 5? Now I’m not worth it? You professed your love now money is making you think twice? I turned to the other lady while my suitor pondered my worth and asked what the standard bride price was in Swazi- 15 cattle! He was getting me at a discount and couldn’t even ante up. Thankfully Amanda returned to rescue me before I was engaged. Whew.

Dec 25, 2008
We got to Maputo, Mozambique last night. Once we crossed the border after a nerve wrecking hour of waiting to get a visa, we flagged down a car and got a lift into the city. We saw the sun rise in Swazi and watched it set in Mozambique. Seeing Maputo for the first time…there were billions of people, buildings crammed together, and tons of honking cars that seemed to have their own rules of the road. It was scary for me seeing as Namibia has 2 million people in the entire huge country. Our driver, Santos, really did turn out to be our Good Samaritan taking us to the bus depot then to find a hostel when we realized the bus at night was going to be a bad idea. He even let us use his cell phone to call our friend. We delivered us safely to Fatima’s. We had no reservation but there was camping available on the roof- that’s why we’d brought tents. We set up under a mango tree and then celebrated our arrival with a series of toasts, each time handing our various local beers to the right. (BTW, Laurentina stout is yummy with chocolate and espresso undertones.) Mostly we were glad to be alive and in a safe place.
Downstairs we met some PC Swazi volunteers and hit it off with them, planning to see them in a few days as we were all headed to Tofo.

Made It To Shewula...Barely

Dec 23, 2008
Yesterday we moved along to Shewula. We took a combi to Manzini, then one to Simunye. In Simunye we were trying to haggle over the price to get to Shewula. We asked for $10, but they said $15. Finally someone said $10 and we hopped in. After riding for a few minutes he says $12. Our car got stopped by the cops and Sarah was reprimanded- it is illegal to let any part of your body protrude from the car. Oops. The mountains in this area are breathtaking. As we made our way up the sun was setting and there are no words to describe the raspberry sherbet the sky had become. We are making stops and people are getting out of the combi. Night is falling and the driver says that we must pay $15. We argue that we agreed to $10 then even to $12. Ten minutes later he stops again and tells us that we must pay. We say look just take us to the place. The police? No, no the place we are going to. Ten minutes later he stops a combi going the other direction and all we hear is blah blah blah, it is $15. Fine guy we’ll pay $15 just take us to where we are going because I’m not going to argue with you over $3 apiece. When we finally got to the Shewula Moutain Lodge it looked deserted. A man emerged and helped us with our bags. The driver is complaining about you, he told us. I was so quick to get out of the combi that I didn’t notice my Nalgene had fallen out of my bag. What annoys me more than loosing my Nalg is loosing it in that guy’s combi.
Anyhow, we arrived at the lodge at dinner time. The food was excellent, some of it traditional, and all lovingly prepared by local people- chicken in peanut sauce, grilled chicken, baked beans, spinach, porridge. We ate until we couldn’t eat any more. Our room was so cute and it was so nice to sleep in a bed.

Weaving and Hiking

Dec 21, 2008
Today we just wanted to relax during the day. We went to the craft market and met Raymond. He’s from Zimbabwe, laid back, and cooks at this cafĂ© as well as making bags out of colorful recycled plastic.
We were going to go adventure caving in the evening but didn’t have proper shoes so we went on a walk instead. The national park was gorgeous. We saw a traditional Swazi village and lots of monkeys. Finally we came to an amazing waterfall. When we got back, Raymond made us a yummy veggie dinner.

Rafting and Sailing

Dec 20, 2008
We went white water rafting today! It was sooooooo cool. Me and Cedar fell out of the boat twice- that was the best part. The rapids weren’t that much but good for beginners. I have got to do this again.
After that we did some absailing. You start at the top of a flat rock face attached to a rope and once you go over the edge you’re kind of walking down the wall. Shifting your weight as you go over the edge was the hardest part. For me, it never got fun- if it can- because I was concentrating so hard on not sliding down and scraping my body on the wall. I did it. I don’t need to do it again.

Swaziland...All You Want In Africa

Dec 19, 2008
Pat and Keith are so awesome. Pat went to the bus station and picked up our tickets then Keith dropped us off at 5:30am. We’re on our way to Swaziland.
Already it is a beautiful place with mountains and rolling green hills.
The bus depot or transport center in Manzini is one of the busiest places I’ve seen in ages. The only thing that compares is Bangkok and that city is at least 20 times as big as this one. It’s noisy and crowded and hot and that is a disgusting bathroom.
We’re finally in our combi or minivan type vehicle. We got to Ezulwini Valley without incident. Wow, there are so many people walking around in traditional dress (men w/a large piece of fabric wrapped around their waste and a fur belt, no shirt, and a sash across their chest).
We got to Legends Backpackers and put our stuff down. Cedar beat us there. Now we are four and go down to the Pick n Pay to get food for dinner.
Now we’re climbing into our tent and hoping that the monkeys don’t come knocking.

Development

Dec 17, 2008
Wow, Gateway Mall is huge! There are stores, restaurants, and movies. There are so many cute clothes and bags and shoes and I’m a volunteer so I can’t afford this stuff and besides that I live in a village so where would I wear this stuff anyhow?
There were so many choices in the food court I actually could not choose and ended up eating off of everyone else’s plates- chicken wings, eggplant salad, hot dog.
We saw “The Women”. It was a disappointment to me and Meg Ryan looks strange.

Durbs By The Sea

Dec 16, 2008
We touched down in Durban last night. I was so glad to be on the ground- I hurled on the flight and my stomach is still feeling a little uneasy. Keith from Smtihs’ Cottage picked us up at the airport. We were in awe at first- lights, buildings, 6 lane highway. Once we got settled in our room we went to get some Chinese food.
Today we got a lift into the city. The Victoria Street Market was cool with lots of crafts, Indian spices, and souvenirs. After that we hopped on the People Mover (bus) and headed toward the beach. As I looked out the window there was a sea of people seeming to be flowing all in one direction, all toward the beach as well. When the doors opened we held on to each other not to drown or get lost in that sea. There were more people on that beach than we had seen in all our Nam months. It was a bit disconcerting. We walked along until we hit Ushaka Marine World were we caught some traditional Zulu dancing, got some ice cream, and plopped down on a bench exhausted just from the sheer energy of things. We sat quietly and watched the people go by- Black, White, Indian, Other, traditional, modern, conservative, outrageous, under the radar. When we finally got up we went to meet Keith who took us to a little members club on the beach for a beer. In the club was White. There were some people of color passing by on the sand but it was all such a contrast to the crowds of brown people when we first got off the bus. (We came to find out that it was Freedom Day and that’s why things were so crazy.)
For dinner we had Indian food but in a restaurant that didn’t fit our vision of a cute mom n pop place. My prawns were good though- I ate so many I might turn into a prawn.